REDHANDED

As Cardiff’s only 5* hotel, the expectation is that St David’s restaurant should be fine dining. But, that’s not necessarily what its guests, after a day’s wheeler dealing or a bruising match, want. They want to kick back. And what better way to relax than with a menu inspired, uniquely in Cardiff, by the most laid-back country in the world – Australia. But, isn’t Australia just bbq’s? Nope. It’s now an exciting, cosmopolitan melting pot of SE Asian, world and Antipodean cuisine. As we admired the sunset over Cardiff Bay, our amiable host Romain, made a few suggestions that would give a good overview of the new menu. Key elements are fresh produce, which is Welsh wherever possible, expertly prepared by headchef Martyn Watkins, bold flavours, a deftness of touch and a wee bit of fun, which extended to the staff’s interaction with customers. My starter of mussels, in black beans, chillies and coconut cream epitomised this – an imaginative and playful twist on a classic, its bold ingredients used sparingly to let the sea-spray taste of the beautifully fresh, tender Welsh mussels shine. A’s judiciously used a sweet beetroot puree and zingy salsa to add pizazz to a delightful Pant Ysgawn goats cheese bonbon. The lemongrass marinated Welsh lamb rump main stayed on