REDHANDED

The Discovery
Celyn Avenue, Lakeside, Cardiff, CF23 6FH • Tel: 029 2075 5015
knifeandforkfood.co.uk/venue/the-discovery/

Not so long ago, The Discovery was a rather tired, bland pub. But as one of only two pubs in prosperous Cyncoed, near Roath Park Lake it had great unrealised potential. Step in Knife and Fork, owners of The Conway in Pontcanna amongst others. With their reputation for great food and beer I was really looking forward to visiting again. I wasn’t disappointed. It’s been transformed into a contemporary but homely foodie pub.

Straightaway, I clocked the range of real ales which boded well. Starters lived up to the rep too – creamed goat’s cheese, beetroot and toasted pine nuts was a great mix of flavours and the crispy aromatic duck egg was a perfectly cooked Chinese-y take on a Scotch egg that simply worked.

On the recommendation of the waiting staff we opted for the ‘Discover the Burger’ and ‘Plank of Pig’ for mains. Yes, I know, typical blokes. But in fairness, the burger is the result of months of experimentation with different cuts of beef and a little pork, seasoning, cooking techniques etc to get optimum moistness and taste. And it showed – a lovely, slightly charred exterior with a juicy middle and packed with flavour (no extra lean ground steak here).

Double cooked chips topped it off. The plank of pig was exceptional if a bit of a beast size (and calorie) wise. No surprise given it comprised of pork belly, a pork croquette, pork tenderloin, black pudding, crackling, a baked apple, apple puree, roasted new potatoes, purple sprouting broccoli and carrots. All perfectly cooked, rammed with simple flavours and well worth the effort it took to eat.

Having pigged out, ahem, only one of us could fit in a pud and very good it was too, apparently. Another calorific overdose in the form of a Snickers tart – described to me as a chocolate and caramel frenzy. Think I’ll try it next time. As should you, all of it.
 

 

The Kings Arms
Kings Arms Village Pub and Kitchen Church Rd, Pentyrch, Cardiff, CF15 9QF • 029 2089 0202
www.kingsarmspentyrch.co.uk

The Kings Arms, situated in the pretty village of Pentyrch, near Cardiff, is a picture postcard 16th century pub and restaurant that has been the focal point of the village for most of its existence. Owner and chef Andy Aston intends to keep it that way whilst also attracting foodies with an adventurous, locally sourced menu in the more contemporary dining area (as opposed to the olde world lounge/bar which has a simpler menu).

I chose pan fried mackerel, black olive tapenade, slow roast tomato, focaccia & pesto as my starter, a dish so good I was still thinking about it even after finishing the main. The roasted rack of pork served on the bone with bubble & squeak, caramelised apples & cider jus chosen from the specials board was my choice as main and it tasted as good as it read. The pork was melt-in-the-mouth tender with an accompanying crisp, salty hit from the crackling. The cider jus and bubble and squeak complimented the meat well while the caramelised apples provided the perfect sweet-kick contrast. All washed down with an excellent Elwoods Summer Pale Ale. My partner J’s soup of the day starter (carrot and ginger) was welcomingly different, giving a fresh, sharp jolt to the palate whilst also giving warmth and comfort to the belly. Her main of Welsh lamb neck fillet with red pepper puree, goats cheese bon bons & rocket salad was a pure delight – pink in the middle and caramel-brown on the outside.

Our delicious desserts, a plank of chocolate consisting of white choc milkshake, rocky road and chocolate cream, and the baked ricotta, stone fruits & berries showed great invention and slick presentation. With plans to refurbish an outbuilding into a deli for local produce and a simple but high quality bar menu running alongside the more ambitious restaurant menu not only is community still at the very heart of the Kings Arms but so is food that’s well worth travelling for.
 

 

Arbennig Restaurant
6-10 Romilly Crescent, Pontcanna, Cardiff CF11 9NR • 029 2034 1264
www.arbennig.co.uk

Arbennig Restaurant, without a shadow of a doubt, is one of Cardiff’s finest new restaurants. My midweek supper was truly sublime, and a joy from start to finish.

Located on the cusp of Canton and Pontcanna, where gastro gem Le Gallois once stood, this fine-dining hot-spot has a warm, familial air that will draw you back time and again.

I’d been planning a visit for quite some time, as the name itself inspires confidence. Arbennig, quite simply, means ‘special’ in Welsh, and my experience surpassed all expectations. The well-considered menu emphasises local , seasonal fare to best reflect the fresh Welsh produce on offer.

The venue is the brainchild of Manchester-born, Bridgend-raised and Coed y Mwstwr-trained chef John Cook and wife Ceri - Arbennig’s charming maître d’. She leads an excellent front of house team who put everyone at ease; the engaging staff are bilingual and well-informed.
Before I even crossed the threshold, I was truly blown away to see a rare Welsh treat on the menu outside. Without a moment’s hesitation, I plumped for the hand picked Porthgain crab as a starter: paired with avocado and salsa verde, it represented the best of Pembrokeshire, but with a twist.

My partner’s roast tomato salad was enhanced by the burst of basil pesto, and the creamy tang of Pant-ysgawn goatsmilk cheese from Abergavenny.
As for the mains, the succulent salt roast duck breast was combined with creamed parsnips and spice roasted oranges, whilst my companion’s hand-rolled potato gnocchi with peas, baby spinach, Wye Valley asparagus, feta and basil pesto, was a taste sensation.

The cream and butter baked brioche, cinnamon apple and organic vanilla ice cream that followed was gone in sixty seconds; a hearty dish that must surely rank as Cardiff’s best new dessert. At the opposite end of the dessert spectrum, the light and refreshing strawberry and coconut sorbets were sent directly to the taste stratosphere, paired with the mindblowing piquancy of the chewy cardomom meringue; a heavenly combination that brought the evening to a memorable close.

Each dish expressed a boldness, a natural flair and a passion for regional Welsh cuisine that is sorely lacking elsewhere in Cardiff at present. ‘Arbennig’ also translates as distinct or unique; this cook’s vision will make you proud to be Welsh.